Page 8 of 31
Posted: Thu 25th Nov 2010 08:55 pm
by Cal X
They are growing nicely Zbeebs, especially the Exile; I assume that's the closest plant on the far right. They all look good! Spring water is fine but it get's expensive. I don't drink the water here either, that's why I use the Chorimine Buster drops. It's cheap and takes a very very small amount. Ask your grow peeps about that, and, Worm casting Tea combined with the Great White. If you decide to go with a pre-made formula Fox Farms Grow Big is a good one; or use both, just reduce the amount of the pre-made.
Also, I wouldn't switch to 12/12 until your smallest plant has 5 sets of branches.
Posted: Fri 26th Nov 2010 03:56 am
by Uncle Ron
Your plants are looking good, although I have reservations about the size. I suppose ("my") problem may be that I'm not used to seeing plants this size after four weeks, only when done intentionally (mother plant in the making, etc...).
As for water, do what you think is best.
In the past I've used Culligan's bottled water throughout the entire process at a cost of approximately $90. I've also used a water purifier (attached to sink spout) as well, $45. No noticeable difference in plant growth or quality of smoke when comparing crops using filtered/processed water and my local tap water.
Lastly, be mindful of the chemicals you introduce to the plants. If you can take a seed and stick it into the ground (outdoors) and it can grow naturally, well...? Just saying sometimes the simplest (or simpler) way is the best, all things considered.
Note: Growing hydro (chemicals, chemicals, chemicals) is a horse from a different planet.
Happy farming.
Posted: Fri 26th Nov 2010 07:21 am
by Cal X
Uncle Ron wrote:Your plants are looking good, although I have reservations about the size. I suppose ("my") problem may be that I'm not used to seeing plants this size after four weeks, only when done intentionally (mother plant in the making, etc...).
As for water, do what you think is best.
In the past I've used Culligan's bottled water throughout the entire process at a cost of approximately $90. I've also used a water purifier (attached to sink spout) as well, $45. No noticeable difference in plant growth or quality of smoke when comparing crops using filtered/processed water and my local tap water.
Lastly, be mindful of the chemicals you introduce to the plants. If you can take a seed and stick it into the ground (outdoors) and it can grow naturally, well...? Just saying sometimes the simplest (or simpler) way is the best, all things considered.
Note: Growing hydro (chemicals, chemicals, chemicals) is a horse from a different planet.
Happy farming.
That's 4 weeks from when he first planted the seeds. He also went through some heat problems, which are now resolved. It took a while for the seedlings to respond to the environment, but, In the last week or so they have shown noticeable growth. I have seen plants that have grown at that pace really take off and flourish!
Posted: Fri 26th Nov 2010 12:25 pm
by Uncle Ron
Cal X wrote:That's 4 weeks from when he first planted the seeds. He also went through some heat problems, which are now resolved. It took a while for the seedlings to respond to the environment, but, In the last week or so they have shown noticeable growth. I have seen plants that have grown at that pace really take off and flourish!
Agreed, he has had an issue or two to deal with, and has IMO recovered quite nicely. Proofs in his pics.
I also have no doubt that his girls will take off, especially since he's turned up the lights to 24hrs and is feeding them. Comparing the pics at three weeks and then a week later, HUGE improvement.
I sure wish I had people around to pick brains with when I first started growing. Would definitely have prevented a couple of failures.
Nice to see that people can come together and share experiences and opinions, with (basically) one goal in mind - grow the best crop possible.
Happy farming.
Posted: Fri 26th Nov 2010 04:14 pm
by ZBeebs
Just put them on 24 hours light today, forgot all about it.
Watered them again today with distilled water, going to get spring water and start using that on Monday when I add nutes and whatnot.
The exile is definitely outgrowing the others, very thick growth so far. #6 (pineapple express) is also looking much better, I thought it was the worst of the lot the first week or so, now it's catching up quickly.
I have no doubt that if I had temps right and didn't plant them too deep they'd be much bigger by now. I'm guessing I set them back at least a week, probably more like 10 days.
Tonight will be 30 days, will probably take some more pics then.
Posted: Fri 26th Nov 2010 05:06 pm
by ed the head
ZBeebs wrote:
How do I know when to water? I got the soil moist before planting (watered until water started coming out the drain holes, then stopped) but now the top of the soil looks dried out. Should I water again so soon? The light is at least 24 inches from the pots.
This is an inexpensive
Soil Moisture Meter readily available on-line or at a grow supply store
Posted: Fri 26th Nov 2010 05:56 pm
by Boner
I just pick the pots up you can tell if they need watering.
Posted: Fri 26th Nov 2010 06:02 pm
by ftcarer
I'm trying to learn to judge by plant/pot weight but do have 1 of those moisture readers aswell I have a cheap moisture/ph 1
Posted: Fri 26th Nov 2010 08:33 pm
by Cal X
The good thing about that moisture reader is that you can check different depths in your pots, so, you can tell the amount of moisture at the root level. for your plants right now, it's probably 8 to 10 inches. You want it dry at that level; even if there is moisture at the bottom. As the roots grow you can use the weight of the pot method. I have that exact meter and it works quite well!
Posted: Mon 29th Nov 2010 11:23 am
by ZBeebs
Posted: Mon 29th Nov 2010 11:46 am
by Boner
I wouldn't be surprised if the plants are making your wifes allergy play up, I get the sneezes at certain points as well.
91 days is 13 weeks so I'd look at putting them into flower in the next week or so, I find plants from seed need an extra week flowering time than whats recommended.
Posted: Mon 29th Nov 2010 01:32 pm
by Cisco
Think the KK is jus an 9 weeker ? mind you im running KK x skunk !
Posted: Mon 29th Nov 2010 07:46 pm
by Cal X
You won't have to move your plants around if they are getting uniform light. Check all plants, and each side, if it looks shaded then you can spin them half way each day. You can also put bricks, or something, under the pots of the shorter plants to put them at the same light level as the taller lights; that way you have an even canopy. Also, as stated before, make sure you shortest plants have 5 sets of branches before switching to 12/12, your not quite there yet, so check them in a week or so. Even if you wait 2 more weeks you will still be harvesting around the 3rd week of Feb.
Also, since your not Vegging for to much longer, see if you can get some samples of grow Ferts from your grow shop. Then when you switch your light start using a P.K, (Flowering), formula.
Posted: Mon 29th Nov 2010 10:35 pm
by Uncle Ron
They look very nice, and healthy (always a good thing).
So, you dealt with and overcame a couple of problems in the beginning and now you want to speed things up? Ok, here we go...
Agree with Cal X, minimum of 5 inter-nodes before flowering.
What do you want to be done with by the end of February: harvest, dry, or cure? You have 12 weeks to play with, so here is what could be done, in my opinion of course.

- 1 more week of veg or till the smallest plant has 5 inter-nodes.
- 8-9 weeks of flowering. Possibly start flushing at day 45 (6.5 weeks) of flowering.
- 1 week to dry. I recommend cutting the buds off of the branches to speed up the drying process. Has worked for me every time.
- 1 week of curing (recommend at least 3 weeks)
Do you have someone who can take over curing while on holiday?
Is it possible to bring the containers and cure while on holiday?
Bud not cured properly, ie... not aired out at least once every other day will most likely mold. Say goodbye to all your little friends.
Think it through, pick the brains of those in the forum, and do what's best.
Happy farming.
Posted: Tue 30th Nov 2010 09:32 am
by ZBeebs
Uncle Ron wrote:They look very nice, and healthy (always a good thing).
So, you dealt with and overcame a couple of problems in the beginning and now you want to speed things up? Ok, here we go...
Agree with Cal X, minimum of 5 inter-nodes before flowering.
What do you want to be done with by the end of February: harvest, dry, or cure? You have 12 weeks to play with, so here is what could be done, in my opinion of course.

- 1 more week of veg or till the smallest plant has 5 inter-nodes.
- 8-9 weeks of flowering. Possibly start flushing at day 45 (6.5 weeks) of flowering.
- 1 week to dry. I recommend cutting the buds off of the branches to speed up the drying process. Has worked for me every time.
- 1 week of curing (recommend at least 3 weeks)
Do you have someone who can take over curing while on holiday?
Is it possible to bring the containers and cure while on holiday?
Bud not cured properly, ie... not aired out at least once every other day will most likely mold. Say goodbye to all your little friends.
Think it through, pick the brains of those in the forum, and do what's best.
Happy farming.
I don't know what an internode is.
If I could time it perfectly, it seems that while they are drying for a week would be the best time to go away. No work to do during drying but wait, right? I don't have anyone who can take care of it for me, and travelling with the containers isn't possible.