My first grow - journal w/ pics

sam · Post by **sam** » Mon 6th Dec 2010 05:55 pm

(Quote from Dirty Uncle Ron
I agree that learning from experts, ie... botanists and the lot, can't hurt.
You learned more in 3 days than 15+ years of growing? Leaving yourself WIDE open aren't you? Sorry,

couldn't help myself.)

Yes I did leave myself wide open with that statement, but it is true. Yes you learn alot from other growers and from books, but still have no real knowledge on why or how it really helps. These courses give you that knowledge.
The KISS method works great for average consistant results. A little knowledge and modern help(actually it is really simple once you understand how it works) will produce crazy good weed with better yields.
Yes the method I described is for a micro/closet grow with a area of 4sq. ft. to easily 100 sq. ft. as temp controls yield and quality more than most know.

Uncle Ron · Post by **Uncle Ron** » Mon 6th Dec 2010 08:58 pm

sam wrote: Yes I did leave myself wide open with that statement, but it is true. Yes you learn alot from other growers and from books, but still have no real knowledge on why or how it really helps. These courses give you that knowledge.
The KISS method works great for average consistant results. A little knowledge and modern help(actually it is really simple once you understand how it works) will produce crazy good weed with better yields.
Yes the method I described is for a micro/closet grow with a area of 4sq. ft. to easily 100 sq. ft. as temp controls yield and quality more than most know.

Thanks for seeing that it was meant in jest.

Totally agree that courses in Botany and so on can help (can't hurt), especially those with limited or no knowledge/experience.

I for one am confident in my knowledge of growing. I can hold a decent conversation with just about anyone when it concerns (bio) growing indoors. I don't know much about hydro, don't really have a need.

I am always looking for methods to produce greater yields, no doubt. My technique uses most available space in my grow box, with an average yield (five plant crop) of nearly 400gms. I could fit up to nine plants but I would have space issues around Week 8 of flowering. Speaking from experience.

I suppose this is an appropriate place for "to each, their own". I know what has worked for me, proven results (pics available). I may view growing with a simplistic approach but it works EVERY time.

Happy farming.

Uncle Ron · Post by **Uncle Ron** » Mon 6th Dec 2010 09:15 pm

Boner wrote:
Uncle Ron wrote:Tops of branches won't even come close to the size of the main cola. Just saying.
Try doing some real reading on the many grow forums and you'll see thats complete and utter bollocks.

Just saying.

Wow, where did this come from? Not deserving of your tone at all. JUST SAYING.
And fuck you for rolling your eyes at me. JUST SAYING.

From my growing experiences, tops aren't bigger than a main cola. I've got pics to back up my opinion. What about your growing experiences Boner? Got any of your own pics to prove your opinion?

Got milk? Want some?
Happy farming.

Old proverb: You can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink.
My proverb: I will lead you to water and hold your head under, your choice: drink or drown.

Boner · Post by **Boner** » Mon 6th Dec 2010 09:47 pm

If topped/fimmed and lst'd properly every single tip be it the end of a side branch or the main cola will be exactly the same size, it's just a myth that the main cola is bigger/better than side branch tips.

http://www.thcfarmer.com/forums/f76/whi ... ight=scrog

1.7+ grams per watt of light using the scrog method.

sam · Post by **sam** » Tue 7th Dec 2010 02:47 am

Boner wrote:If topped/fimmed and lst'd properly every single tip be it the end of a side branch or the main cola will be exactly the same size, it's just a myth that the main cola is bigger/better than side branch tips.

http://www.thcfarmer.com/forums/f76/whi ... ight=scrog

1.7+ grams per watt of light using the scrog method.

Nothing against you Boner in any way, but I can bullshit on 1.7 grams per watt. Do the math from his own post, the total is 1.35 grams per watt for the total grow. Unless it was a very short grow that is really not that great.

Uncle Ron · Post by **Uncle Ron** » Tue 7th Dec 2010 10:04 am

Boner wrote:If topped/fimmed and lst'd properly every single tip be it the end of a side branch or the main cola will be exactly the same size, it's just a myth that the main cola is bigger/better than side branch tips.

http://www.thcfarmer.com/forums/f76/whi ... ight=scrog

1.7+ grams per watt of light using the scrog method.

Hey Boner,
I did not say nor would I be so stupid as to make such a statement that branch tops are of lesser quality (better). From my experience (operative statement), the main cola has a greater yield than any single branch top. I am not saying that it has never or could ever happen, that would be ignorant.
I've seen outdoor plants that had tops that were similar in size of the cola, but I haven't seen this with an indoor plant. With the exception of the crop where I had topped two plants, all colas provided the single largest yield (edit) when compared to any single top. This is my personal grow experience and not some random opinion.

Lastly, sorry about the fuck you comment. No excuses.

Although in my defense I am out (a bit cranky) and can't re-up until next week.

Happy farming.

Uncle Ron · Post by **Uncle Ron** » Tue 7th Dec 2010 10:19 am

sam wrote: Nothing against you Boner in any way, but I can bullshit on 1.7 grams per watt. Do the math from his own post, the total is 1.35 grams per watt for the total grow. Unless it was a very short grow that is really not that great.

Wow do I feel like an inadequate grower.

I use a 400W system in a 1sq meter grow tent and average just under 400gms with five plants. There has to be some other formula that works in my favor. I know, the total cost to grow per gram. My best - 0.42e; my worst - 0.57e. Beats paying +12e on the street or C/S. A primary reason to grow your own if I ever saw one.

Happy farming.

Boner · Post by **Boner** » Tue 7th Dec 2010 04:40 pm

A gram per watt is good growing, anyone claiming much more is talking shit, no worries on the other stuff.

Sam, I didn't do the maths by the way I read it in that thread (3rd post) it does indeed state it's 1.35 grams per watt later on though, apologies for not reading through the whole thing first, The White (which this strain is based on White X OG fire cut I presume, again I haven't read through the whole thread 100%) is actually quite a low yielding plant so his 1.35 per watt is actually fucking amazing tbh.

Uncle Ron · Post by **Uncle Ron** » Tue 7th Dec 2010 05:33 pm

Boner wrote: ...no worries on the other stuff.

Thanks. Cheers m8.

Happy farming.

ZBeebs · Post by **ZBeebs** » Wed 8th Dec 2010 02:51 am

So I've been worried about overwatering, so I went a day longer than usual. I thought they were dry this morning but decided to wait until I got home from work to water them. When I got home 8 was really wilted and droopy and 9 was starting to droop. I picked up the pot, and it was really light, much more so than the others. It seems the water runs through this pot faster and it won't hold as much water, and 9 too but to a lesser extent. Two hours after watering and there is already huge improvement. No pics because my computer died today.

What did I do wrong with those two plants that the pots don't hold as much water?

Cal X · Post by **Cal X** » Wed 8th Dec 2010 05:55 am

The fact that your plants where getting a little droopy is a good indicator that they want some water, if you don't wait to long to water them, they will liven right up again; as yours did! At least you are getting a feel for which pots hold more or less water.
I don't think that you did any thing wrong, sometimes each pot has a different distribution of Perlite, which effects the drainage of the soil. Also, larger root systems will take a little more water. Or, plants right under the lamps may dry out faster, there are a variety of factors. Just mark the pots that take a different amount of water, and check all of them often. A Hygrometer may still be a good idea, or, stick your finger deep in the side of the pot. as I suggested earlier.
Also, that was a good idea to label your pots, that way you know which plant is which when you move them around. I use foam bricks, that florists use, to raise my pots. You can find them in any Hobby store, they're cheap, light and water proof.
Your smallest plants should be getting 5 sets of branches soon. Try to time your feedings out so that you start using your Flowering Ferts when you switch to 12/12. If your switching to 600 wt, you may want to raise your lights a little at first, usually that's not a problem, though. Are you switching to H.P.S bulbs? That's what you want for Flowering.

ZBeebs · Post by **ZBeebs** » Wed 8th Dec 2010 06:22 am

Now that I can tell the difference between a light and heavy pot, that will take a lot of the guesswork out of watering.

I've been running 600 watts for a while now. I switched on "super lumens" today which supposedly adds 10% lumens, so its like I'm running 660 watts. I turned the knob and it got a little brighter so maybe it works?

I will be switching to a hps bulb, have one ready to go. I think I'm going to wait a bit longer before flowering. I measured the inside of the tent, and its 77 inches tall. The pots are 9.25 inches tall, the reflector and hangers take up 16 inches when raised as high as they will go. That leaves 51.75 inches of open space. If I assume 18 inches of free space between the light and the tops of the plants that means the plants can grow 33.75 inches tall. The tallest plant is still about 2 inches away from half of that.

Do I really need 18 inches of space between the light and plants? I can hold my hand a couple inches from the light all day. I'm running a sealed reflector, one end open pulling air from inside the tent out through the fan, and current ambient temp in the tent is 72. A charcoal canister filter will be added between the reflector and fan once odor becomes a problem.

Cal X · Post by **Cal X** » Wed 8th Dec 2010 07:24 am

ZBeebs, about 18" is the standard for the closest the top of the plants should be from the lamp.Even with a vented hood, the HPS bulb will make it hotter close to the glass. You have to remember there will always be a few plants closer to the light, you may have to move them around so you can get the taller plants at a safe distance and the shorties close enough. Once you get your HPS bulb on and the temp and humidity regulated, hang a thermometer at different distances from the glass to see how close you can get. I doubt that your plants will get so tall that it will be a problem.

Nick Potter · Post by **Nick Potter** » Wed 8th Dec 2010 09:18 am

What a fantastic post, thinking about starting my own system and the info on this post has been very informative. I have a budget of about £1k to start me off. I would like to purchase some equipment before I leave the UK moving to Poland. Any suggestions
Thanks Nick

Uncle Ron · Post by **Uncle Ron** » Wed 8th Dec 2010 10:36 pm

[quote="ZBeebs"][/quote]

Ditto Cal X on both his responses.

Here's the thing about light spacing - too close you could burn the plants and too far could cause them to stretch. If you decide to lower the lamp closer than 18", monitor the temperatures closely, not to mention the plants themselves. I don't let the temps at the top of the plants exceed 85F and haven't experienced any issues, although this doesn't mean you won't.

Finding the sweet spot isn't difficult, just a pain in the ass sometimes. In the beginning there can be a lot of trial and error, nature of the beast and all that, but you will get the hang of it, I did.

Happy farming.